Tech Day!!!

so steve... looks like its just you and me doin it.

Does anyone have a write up of all the tools needed and instructions on the actual install?

MustangManiac wrote:so steve... looks like its just you and me doin it.

Does anyone have a write up of all the tools needed and instructions on the actual install?

Instructions! What are those? :^scratch^:

2k6silvergt wrote:

MustangManiac wrote:so steve... looks like its just you and me doin it.

Does anyone have a write up of all the tools needed and instructions on the actual install?

Instructions! What are those? :^scratch^:

haha... just like a little step to step write up

MustangManiac wrote:

2k6silvergt wrote:

MustangManiac wrote:so steve... looks like its just you and me doin it.

Does anyone have a write up of all the tools needed and instructions on the actual install?

Instructions! What are those? :^scratch^:

haha... just like a little step to step write up

That may have contributed to why we had such a difficult time. Although the one write-up we eventually looked at made things look a lot easier than they actually were.

2k6silvergt wrote:

MustangManiac wrote:

2k6silvergt wrote:

MustangManiac wrote:so steve... looks like its just you and me doin it.

Does anyone have a write up of all the tools needed and instructions on the actual install?

Instructions! What are those? :^scratch^:

haha... just like a little step to step write up

That may have contributed to why we had such a difficult time. Although the one write-up we eventually looked at made things look a lot easier than they actually were.

haha i've heard that

Murph wrote:ill get your guys a step by step if you want! AJ and I did my shorty headers by jacking the motor up and sliding them sorta lol in that way:)

PAT!!!! lol ill get one for ya i hope i can find 1

Found the write up off of moddedmustangs.com CLICK HERE FOR INSTALL PICTURES!!!!!!

Ford Mustangs are famous for having a very accepting aftermarket. The GT and Cobra Mustangs have always had numerous exhaust kits availabe through the aftermarket. From Cat-Back kits to mid pipes to headers, a full exhaust on a Mustang will surely make an enthusiast smile from ear to ear and make bystanders turn heads in fascination.

Although the aftermarket has been welcoming the V8 model Mustangs with arms wide open, the V6 model has been slow to gain aftermarket support. However, over the past few years, several companies have been fabricating and producing more involved aftermarket modifications for the V6. One of these companies, Mac, manufactures a set of Long Tube headers for the V6. This kit mates with an off road or prochambered shorty midpipe and a Cat-Back from a GT Mustang. Now V6 Mustang owners who want to get the better flow (up to 38rwhp on modified engines- “MM&FF”) and sound of long tube headers can do so through two different coatings from Mac. The basic coating is called HTS Coated, the higher quality is a Ceramac Coated set.

Expected Price:
Mac Long Tube Headers (ceramac coated) = $381.59
Oxygen Sensor Extenders = $29.99
MIL Eliminator Kit = $59.99
all hardware included

Total = $485 after taxes and shipping

Expected Time:
4 Hours

Expected Materials Needed:
Mac Long Tube Headers


Oxygen Sensors (optional- part of a 90k mile tune-up)


Oxygen Sensor Extenders


MIL Eliminators


Hardware


Expected Tools Needed:
Jack
Jackstands (2)
Various Socket/Ratchet combinations and sizes
Crescent Wrench
Sawzall
Welder (optional)

Expected Procedure:
Removal of the stock system:

Jack the front of your Mustang into the air with about 12 inches of space
below the front two wheels. Place supporting jack stands beneath the K-Member and then let the jack loose.

Pop the hood and disconnect the oil dipstick bracket from the driver’s side of the engine. One bolt holds this in place.



Move to the passenger side of the engine compartment and remove the air inlet pipe from the throttle body to the mass airflow sensor. A flat head screwdriver will suffice here.



Now, disconnect the EGR system. Pull the two hose lines free, and then use the crescent wrench to disconnect the EGR pipe from the passenger exhaust manifold and the EGR pump at the engine.



Remove all 6 spark plug wires and all of the spark plugs on the passenger side. Remember the firing order for 3.8L Mustangs is as follows:



Now, unbolt the stock exhaust manifolds (headers) from the midpipe and drop the midpipe down from the headers. Also remove the oxygen sensors.



Next, unbolt the stock headers from the engine. The headers are held in by 6 bolts each. We used air tools to make this task easier.



The driver’s side exhaust manifold will need to be removed by pulling it down under the engine compartment; the passenger side manifold must come up through the engine compartment.

Now, prepare to install you nice, new long tube headers!

The passenger side is the more difficult of the two, by far. On the passenger side, you must bring the long tubes up from the bottom of the engine compartment and the fittament is tight, to say the least. Place your new manifold gaskets on your headers and utilize your new hardware to bolt on the long tubes.

Tip: Work from back to front of the engine when installing the bolts for the long tubes.

After you get the passenger side header bolted on, reconnect the EGR lines to the header and the EGR pump fixed at the front of the engine. You can also go ahead and reinstall your air inlet pipe and spark plugs/wires at the passenger side at this point.

Now, move on to installing the driver’s side long tube header.

Tip: The oil dipstick line and bracket need to be fixated between the rear-most two pipes of the header.

You will also install this one from the bottom of the engine up. The fittament is much more roomy on the driver’s side, and bolting it up with the same pattern (rear to front) makes this side much easier to do. Be sure to place the gasket on before installing, and utilize the new stainless steel hardware as well.



After bolting on the driver’s side long tube header, you can now reinstall the spark plug wires and all of the oxygen sensors.

Now you can move out of you engine compartment since you have completed the installation of the headers.



For a clean bolt-on look, you can use the Mac Shorty H Pipe, but we just refabricated my already custom H pipe.



To get a leak free fit, we cut the flange off of the front of the first catalytic converter and welded it to my H pipe. We cut the pipe back 2 1/2″ to line it up perfectly with the long tube headers on the driver’s side.



For the passenger side, we had to cut back 2 1/2″ and weld the flange just like the driver’s side, but in addition to that, we had to cut a 1 1/2″ section out of the 90degree bend of the H pipe to move it closer to the driveshaft to receive a perfect fit.

After lining up the H pipe segments and bolting the flanges to the collector pipe, we welded it all in place to ensure no leaks.

Now, you are ready for the electrical portion of this project.

Simply plug your MIL Eliminators into the rearmost oxygen sensors and then plug the reverse end of the MIL’s to the harness of the oxygen sensor. This will ensure the check engine light will remain in proper function, but a code for emissions will not be set for the sensors detecting no catalyst in the exhaust.



Now, plug the oxygen sensor extenders into the front two oxygen sensors and then tuck them out of the way of heat.

Now, jack the car up off of the jack stands and remove them from under the car. Next, lower the car and you are ready to test fire and make sure there are no leaks.

Leaks? weld them up or head to a muffler shop to have them weld it for you.



No leaks? fire her up and wake the neighbors! You are now ready to enjoy more power and more sound whether it be on the road or at the track!

hell yeah david! you rock!

maybe i shoulda used the search function.

i freaquent moddedmustangs often...going on 1 years being a member...lol

BBK Shorty Header Install CLICK HERE FOR INSTALL PICS!!!!

It's a rite of passage these days. Putting Flowmaster mufflers on your Mustang, that is. In today's market, consumers don't just have one choice in exhaust products, which gives them the opportunity to make their Mustang sound unique. This can be done by using several different exhaust combos, shorty or full length headers, H or X pipe, using dumps or tail pipes, etc. Well, the owner of our 1995 Mustang GT project car, Jeremy, wanted to make his Mustang sound unique. Not wanting the famous Flowmaster sound, Jeremy has opted to keep the stock mufflers for now. One of the cheapest ways to change the tone of the stock exhaust is replacing the stock , restrictive headers (see fig 1). In a quest for more horsepower, replacing the stock headers is a must, especially for those Stangers with modified motors. Jeremy went out and purchased a set of BBK unequal length shorty headers from Brother's Performance Outlet. (see fig 2)


(fig 1) (fig 2)


Before even attempting to install the headers, the engine must be completely cool. The best way to do this is to position the car up on jack stands the night before and start the install the next morning. However it is possible to let the car cool down a couple of hours before starting. Be very careful when working around the exhaust manifolds and the EGR, they can be extremely hot. Experienced mechanics claim to do a header swap in about 3 to 4 hours. The majority will quickly learn that it takes much longer than that. Depending on your skill level and amount of patience, expect the install to take anywhere from 6-8 hours. Invite a buddy over to help you out. An extra hand may be needed.

Step 1. Start by removing the negative cable from the battery. In order to gain access to the header on the passenger side, the induction will need to be removed. Unscrew the two screw camps holding on the induction hose from the throttle body to the air box. Unhook the ventilation hose from the induction tubing, and disconnect and unscrew the Air Temperature Sensor. The air box is held in by a rubber mounted screw to the fender-well. Unscrew and remove. The hoses that run to the smog pump and catalytic converters will need to be removed. There are 3 screw clamps that will need to be loosened and two vacuum lines that will need to be disconnected before the hose(s) can be removed. Remember which vacuum line goes where. (see fig 3)


(fig 3) (fig 4)

Step 2. To aid in the ease of loosening the header bolts, the spark plugs and wires need to be removed. To get the spark plugs out, use the removal socket found in most automotive tool sets. Once they have been take out, the H-pipe will need to be loosened.

Step 3. Complete removal of the H-pipe is not necessary, but may aid in the installation of the headers. In our case, we did not want or need to remove the stock h-pipe, as it is quite heavy. Jack the car up on to 4 jack stands to give you plenty of room to work under the car. Using a ¾" socket or bigger, and a lot of extensions, remove the two nuts from the H-pipe flange. Repeat for both sides. In order to get access to one of the nuts on the passenger side, the oxygen sensor will need to be removed from the H-pipe. It can be removed with a special socket, or a 22mm open-ended wrench. Before loosening the oxygen sensor, unplug it from the wiring harness so the wires don't get twisted. Remove the two screws holding the H-pipe to the transmission cross-member. Loosening the brackets on the air tube may be wise as well. Now the H-pipe can be pulled down from the headers. This may take some strength, considering your H-pipe may have never been disconnected for the life of your car.

Step 4. Using a socket, loosen and remove the header bolts. There should be 16 in total. (see fig 4) Some of the bolts may be hard to reach, so different length sockets and extensions may be needed. I had trouble removing the first header bolt on the driver's side, on cylinder 5. The power steering pump and A/C compressor would not allow me to use a socket wrench, nor would it allow for the travel of an open-ended wrench. I ended up using a swivel to get it out. Just as a heads up, on the driver's side, the dipstick tube is attached to a header bolt and on the passenger side, one of the metal air tubes is attached to the furthest most header bolt. (see fig 5) Now unscrew the top of the EGR tube from the EGR valve located on the throttle body. You will need a 1" wrench and need to turn it clockwise to loosen it. (see fig 6) Step 5. Removing the headers is not a simple task. It will take some bending and scraping. The dip stick tube will need to be removed from the block in order to remove the driver's side header. Once removed, remove the stock gaskets from the block. Some gasket removal/scraping may be necessary.


(fig 5) (fig 6)

Step 5. Removing the headers is not a simple task. It will take some bending and scraping. The dip stick will need to be removed from the block in order to remove the driver's side header. Once removed, remove the stock gaskets from the block. Some gasket removal/scraping may be necessary.

Step 6. Before putting in the new headers, there is one step of preparation needed. The studs need to be screwed into the header flange. Use some high temperature Loc-tite to make sure they don't back out. Use a pair of channel locks to screw the bolts all the way in. Now the headers can be placed next to the block. The headers go in much easier than they come out.

Step 7. Bolting up the headers to the block is a major pain. Trying to get the header to line up with the bolt holes can seem next to impossible at times. Before attempting to bolt up the headers, align the gasket to the header and put one bolt in at each end of the header to keep the gasket in place. This is where a friend comes in handy. Have a buddy hold the bolt in place on the other end of the header while you try to thread the first bolt. This is to prevent the gasket from slipping. As you are positioning the header into place, be careful not to tear the gasket or else it is unusable. (see fig 7) Once a bolt on each side has been threaded, you may notice a gap in the center of the header and the block. (see fig This is normal. The header will completely mate with the block when all the bolts are put in place. You may need to take a couple of breaks as you try to thread the first couple of bolts. Sometimes changing roles with your buddy can be a valuable move. Once the rest of the bolts have been put in, make sure they are really tight. You my want to put some Anti-seize on the header bolts, to prevent them from getting stuck down the road, but it's optional. When bolting up the driver's side, be sure to include the dipstick tube, you don't want it to rattle around. For the passenger side, you don't need to bolt the air tube back to the block. You can always tie it up somewhere so it won't rattle around. We used some zip ties to do this.


(fig 7) (fig

Step 8. Now reconnect the H-pipe. This may be a bit difficult because the H-pipe needs to be lifted up towards the headers. Align the flange with the header studs and slide into place. Finger tighten the two nuts. Slowly tighten each side with the socket. You don't want to tighten up one bolt all the way and then do the next because this may bend the header collector and create an exhaust leak. Tighten each side incrementally then torque down. To prevent an exhaust leak make sure both nuts are tight. Repeat for the other side and screw in the oxygen sensor. Do not over tighten the nuts or the threads may strip. We broke two, brand new header studs and had to replace them. This was because BBK sent us header studs that came stripped, so be sure you check the studs before installing them.

Step 9. The new set of headers may come with a different EGR tube (94 & 95). Ford Motorsport headers utilize the stock EGR tube, however manufacturers such as BBK include a new one. Align the EGR tube on the header bung and lightly screw in. Align the top of the EGR tube to the EGR valve coming from the Throttle Body. Use some high temperature Loc-tite on the threads to prevent the nut from backing out. Tighten the nut at the top of the EGR tube, apply the Loc-Tite the threads at the bottom and tighten.


(fig 9)


Step 10. Install the spark plugs and attach the wires. Take special precaution that the plug wires are not resting on the headers or EGR tube. (see fig 9)

Step 11. Go over each header bolt again to make sure they are nice and tight. Install the rubber air tubes to the smog pump and insert the air box. Insert the induction tubing and tighten down. The engine is ready to start up. Reattach the negative cable to the battery. Keep in mind that greasy hand prints on the H-pipe, headers, and miscellaneous equipment will smoke a bit and give off a foul stench. Once the car is started, listen for exhaust leaks, which sound like a ticking noise. The easiest way to locate an exhaust leak is to take a metal tube, put one end on your ear, and move the other end around the engine. Tighten up and exhaust leaks and then take it for a road test.

It is common for the headers to smell for up to two weeks after the install. In our case, the headers produced a smell similar to Macaroni and Cheese. The next day the smell changed to burnt Macaroni and Cheese. Over all, I am not pleased with the quality of the BBK headers. Brother's Performance forgot to include the new EGR tubing and it took several phone calls to have a new tube shipped to us. On one of our many attempts to get a new EGR tube, we were told by a service representative that the EGR tube is not supposed to be included, even though the directions say that one is. His response was to cap off the EGR, rather than ship us a new tube. Aside from that, the chrome headers discolored from the heat within the first 5 minutes of starting the engine. One would think that the finish would be better than that.

After about a week or so, it would be a good idea to retighten the header bolts so they don't back out. The last thing anyone wants to do is replace a header gasket because the header bolts backed out and caused a major exhaust leak. Some people feel that it is necessary to retighten the header bolts after a few days, then a week, then after two weeks, but each case is different. We only had to tighten the header bolts twice.

There was not a huge power gain from the install of the shorty headers. The was a noticeable difference in the tone of the exhaust. The sound from the stock mufflers is much lower and noticeably deeper than MAC and Flowmaster mufflers and Jeremy is happy with his alternative sound.

~Scott

SteviGX wrote:hell yeah david! you rock!

maybe i shoulda used the search function.

i freaquent moddedmustangs often...going on 1 years being a member...lol

i do what i can... no prob man

4 hours for longtubes would be very interesting to see. I think most shops quote 4-5 hours but they also have lifts and high powered air tools. I would probably say plan on a good 6-8 hours.

Absolutely plan for a full day. Just ask David about our adventures with his shorty headers

2k6silvergt wrote:4 hours for longtubes would be very interesting to see. I think most shops quote 4-5 hours but they also have lifts and high powered air tools. I would probably say plan on a good 6-8 hours.

most def. you gotta calculate in the time that you use jacking the car up, placing the jack stands, lowering the jack so the car sits on the stands, squeezing under there with only 12-16 extra '', figuring out how the f**K to disconnect the k, then you can actually get the install haha.

MustangManiac wrote:

2k6silvergt wrote:4 hours for longtubes would be very interesting to see. I think most shops quote 4-5 hours but they also have lifts and high powered air tools. I would probably say plan on a good 6-8 hours.

most def. you gotta calculate in the time that you use jacking the car up, placing the jack stands, lowering the jack so the car sits on the stands, squeezing under there with only 12-16 extra '', figuring out how the f**K to disconnect the k, then you can actually get the install haha.

It is pretty straight forward what needs to be unbolted from the k member. The thing that sucks was there is all kinds of crap that connects it. I thought the hardest part by far was just getting the k member out of the way after it was unbolted, the thing weighs a ton. After it is out of the way the install goes pretty smooth besides for reaching some of the bolts.

2k6silvergt wrote:

MustangManiac wrote:

2k6silvergt wrote:4 hours for longtubes would be very interesting to see. I think most shops quote 4-5 hours but they also have lifts and high powered air tools. I would probably say plan on a good 6-8 hours.

most def. you gotta calculate in the time that you use jacking the car up, placing the jack stands, lowering the jack so the car sits on the stands, squeezing under there with only 12-16 extra '', figuring out how the f**K to disconnect the k, then you can actually get the install haha.

It is pretty straight forward what needs to be unbolted from the k member. The thing that sucks was there is all kinds of crap that connects it. I thought the hardest part by far was just getting the k member out of the way after it was unbolted, the thing weighs a ton. After it is out of the way the install goes pretty smooth besides for reaching some of the bolts.

ok cool. Thats easy.

I'm looking at lightweight K's online... i may invest...

MustangManiac wrote:

2k6silvergt wrote:

MustangManiac wrote:

2k6silvergt wrote:4 hours for longtubes would be very interesting to see. I think most shops quote 4-5 hours but they also have lifts and high powered air tools. I would probably say plan on a good 6-8 hours.

most def. you gotta calculate in the time that you use jacking the car up, placing the jack stands, lowering the jack so the car sits on the stands, squeezing under there with only 12-16 extra '', figuring out how the f**K to disconnect the k, then you can actually get the install haha.

It is pretty straight forward what needs to be unbolted from the k member. The thing that sucks was there is all kinds of crap that connects it. I thought the hardest part by far was just getting the k member out of the way after it was unbolted, the thing weighs a ton. After it is out of the way the install goes pretty smooth besides for reaching some of the bolts.

ok cool. Thats easy.

I'm looking at lightweight K's online... i may invest...

In the case I would go with either upr or maximum motorsports. You can get the upr kit with the k-member, a-arms, and coilovers with springs for like 700.

you guys are crazy lol, Im not droppin my K-member lol i can only imagine how fun that would be :p is this still going down sat/ sun?

Murph wrote:you guys are crazy lol, Im not droppin my K-member lol i can only imagine how fun that would be :p is this still going down sat/ sun?

how would you do it?

On the gt... the only way to really do it is by dropping the Kmember or removing the engine completely... room is very tight with the 4.6L in that small ass engine bay.

I'm not sure yet. Me and steve are still trying to figure it out.
I think we may do it sometime next week, where we can both pre plan this. Its gonna be an all day ordeal, so i'll need to get over to his place early and start immediatly lol

lol i got ya on the all day ordeal! took us 2 days off an on for mine just cause we had no plan of attack :*bonk(:

Zak would be the one to talk to for the GT but on the v6 we loosened the motor mounts and jacked the motor up about an inch and slide the headers in from up top and threw the bottom. however they fit best.

Murph wrote:lol i got ya on the all day ordeal! took us 2 days off an on for mine just cause we had no plan of attack :*bonk(:

Zak would be the one to talk to for the GT but on the v6 we loosened the motor mounts and jacked the motor up about an inch and slide the headers in from up top and threw the bottom. however they fit best.

We had to drop the k-member and do everything from underneath because there was no room from the top. This was also on a 98 gt so I'm not sure how it would compare, room wise, to a 99-04 gt. Although I imagine it would be pretty much the same.

2k6silvergt wrote:

Murph wrote:lol i got ya on the all day ordeal! took us 2 days off an on for mine just cause we had no plan of attack :*bonk(:

Zak would be the one to talk to for the GT but on the v6 we loosened the motor mounts and jacked the motor up about an inch and slide the headers in from up top and threw the bottom. however they fit best.

We had to drop the k-member and do everything from underneath because there was no room from the top. This was also on a 98 gt so I'm not sure how it would compare, room wise, to a 99-04 gt. Although I imagine it would be pretty much the same.

the sn95's are actually much more cramped than the new edge gt's. and the cobras engine bay is even tighter than both, just because of the heads.

so who is coming to help? thursday at my house. lol. should be fun!

SteviGX wrote:so who is coming to help? thursday at my house. lol. should be fun!

I'm not sure I would use fun to describe it. I have class on Thursday but if I'm not busy after I will give you guys a call.

SteviGX wrote:so who is coming to help? thursday at my house. lol. should be fun!

If I can duck outa class thursday ill be there

Hell Yes its gonna be fun haha... NOT! But if we get enough guys it'll be fun.