Axle Seals/ Bearings...

Well guys, it looks like I've got an axle bearing going bad on the Mustang. I noticed that the rotor was getting chewed up and it's making an odd sound while making turns. The passenger side axle has some play in it and that looks to be the culprit. I've found a guy that works up at Gateway here in Gallatin that is willing to help me out, but I figured I'd get you guys' input first. He said he figured the labor would be between $2-400 + parts, does that seem right? This is something that I'm not willing to tinker with, at least not without the help of someone with experience..

These are the seals/ bearings I have been looking at getting, do you think that these would be sufficient? I assume that the FRPP stuff would be more heavy duty than the regular Motorcraft parts. I'm kind of surprised at how cheap these are, but I guess I won't complain.. IF the FRPP stuff doesn't look good, what manufacturer do you recommend?

http://www.fordracingparts.com/parts/part_details.asp?PartKeyField=6006

Uggh.. One thing after another it seems.

That is alot of labor charge for an extremely simple thing to do. You can rent the bearing puller from autozone and do it yourself. If it take longer then an hour for a first timer I would be very surprised.

oxfordgt wrote:That is alot of labor charge for an extremely simple thing to do. You can rent the bearing puller from autozone and do it yourself. If it take longer then an hour for a first timer I would be very surprised.

Less than an hour?? Come on man.. Removing the brakes, removing the diff cover, draining the fluid, pulling the clips then yanking the axles out. I guess if you had a lift, the proper training and all of the tools laid out in perfect order you could do it in an hour, but give me a break.... :*blahblah*:

My biggest problem is the fact that I have never done it before and messing with the rear end is not something that is recommended for people without proper knowledge of what they are doing. If I had some help, or guidance from someone who has done it before, especially on a Mustang then I would feel much more comfortable helping or even doing it myself with the other person there showing me how to do it.

LOL really you are just scaring yourself about it more then anything. Your not messing with the rearend just the axles. It would be very hard to mess anything up.

1. put the rear on jackstands
2. remove calipers
3. remove diff cover and drain fluid
4. remove calper brackets (if you have abs then pull the sensors)
5. push axles in and use a magnet to pull the c clips
6. pull axles
7. use bearing puller and yank out the bearings
8. press in new bearings
9. reinstall axles, c clips, caliper brackets, calipers and diff cover (only use silicon for the gasket)
10. add fluid and friction modifier

Done. Trust me it's extremely simple.

Well, I have been doing some good old Haynes reading and it says something about removing the pinion lock bolt and then taking out the pinion shaft. Is this a necessary step?

Also found this write-up. I know it's an F-150, but is this pretty much the process?

http://www.f150online.com/forums/articles-how-tos/371600-how-replace-rear-axle-seals-bearings-your-04-f150-lots-pics.html

Also, any input at all on the FRPP bearings/ seals that I posted?

I'm also considering going with 70w110 or 140 this time instead of the 70w90. It seems like it may be a good idea, especially running the 3:73's. Again, any input?

WNRacing wrote:

oxfordgt wrote:That is alot of labor charge for an extremely simple thing to do. You can rent the bearing puller from autozone and do it yourself. If it take longer then an hour for a first timer I would be very surprised.

Less than an hour?? Come on man.. Removing the brakes, removing the diff cover, draining the fluid, pulling the clips then yanking the axles out. I guess if you had a lift, the proper training and all of the tools laid out in perfect order you could do it in an hour, but give me a break.... :*blahblah*:

My biggest problem is the fact that I have never done it before and messing with the rear end is not something that is recommended for people without proper knowledge of what they are doing. If I had some help, or guidance from someone who has done it before, especially on a Mustang then I would feel much more comfortable helping or even doing it myself with the other person there showing me how to do it.

listen to ox he knows what he's talking about. if this clown is telling you $200-$400 for simply replacing some axle bearings, then he's smoking crack and trying to rip you off.

Take it down to Joe @ Essentially Offroad in Murfreesboro, tell him Andrew sent you and he'll hook you up. those guys do that stuff all day long, charge you an hours labor, and you bring your parts.

Can't give you any advice on the parts since I don't use them because I have c clip eliminators. Stick with what ever the owners manual says for the oil weight. Gearing makes no difference.

WNRacing wrote:Well, I have been doing some good old Haynes reading and it says something about removing the pinion lock bolt and then taking out the pinion shaft. Is this a necessary step?

Also found this write-up. I know it's an F-150, but is this pretty much the process?

http://www.f150online.com/forums/articles-how-tos/371600-how-replace-rear-axle-seals-bearings-your-04-f150-lots-pics.html

Also, any input at all on the FRPP bearings/ seals that I posted?

I'm also considering going with 70w110 or 140 this time instead of the 70w90. It seems like it may be a good idea, especially running the 3:73's. Again, any input?

If you follow the pictures you'll see the bolt and shaft (I would call spider gear shaft) do have to come out so the axle can slide inward enough to remove the axle retainer clip. It really isn't as scary as it may seem. Those F150 photos are very good and your right it's pretty much the same. I think you can do it and not pay for labor...

I changed them tonight, it was an experience for sure. Now that I've done it, the next time will be much more simple. Forgot to take the ABS sensors off and couldn't get the axles pushed all the way in, took me a while to realize the problem, but I figured it out.

It feels a lot tighter with less movement. I'm letting the RTV cure overnight, and will fill the pumpkin tomorrow and give it a test.

Overall it was a good experience, it's fun to get your hands dirty and tear into something that you know absolutely nothing about.

BTW: I got some motorcraft brand RTV to seal the diff cover, and that stuff seems like it is amazing. Super tacky. Made for diesels. If this thing leaks I don't think anythign can seal it. lmao I'll take some pics of it tomorrow or Sunday.

Good job! Feels good when you do it yourself doesn't it.

I've always had the attitude that I'd try to fix something first, if I can't then I will get help. Seams there are always people who are willing to lend a hand. Congrates!!!

Yeah, that's how I am for the most part.. There are a few things that I just won't even consider working on without some pro. help, but I will usually see if I can do it myself. I do all of my own maintenance, plugs, oil, brakes, etc... I'm one of the few that actually enjoys to get my hands dirty, even if it's for no apparent reason at all, lol.

Ok, back on topic.. Still having the same problem.. Can't figure it out, it just doesn't make sense.

The passenger side rear brake is catching and dragging, but it doesn't seem like it does it all of the time, or at least not much. It is most pronounced when making very sharp right turns from a dead stop. I've changed the pads, rotors, and the caliper, bled it, etc. So whatever the problem is, I'm pretty sure it isn't in that brake. I obviously just changed the axle bearings (both sides) and both sides seemed to have about the same amount of movement in and out, so I'm stumped.. What the hell could this be?

These are pictures of what the previous rotor ended up looking like..





That's another odd thing about it, the position of the drag/rub. It is only in that one isolated spot closest to the inside of the rotor, it seems to me that if the axle was moving or flexxing in or out too much that it would just be a fairly even rub across the entire rotor. I did look at the axles, they both looked perfectly fine, didn't notice anything out of the ordinary at all. Any ideas?

Thanks for the help.

PS: I did lube the sliders on the calipers, so it's not sticking, I just have no idea what the heck could be causing this issue.

**edit** the only other factor that I thought could possibly be an issue is the emergency brake, but it seems to me that it would drage all the time if that were the issue.. hmmm

Lift the rear off the ground and put it in drive and let the rear spin off the ground and see if you have a bent axle. With what you have done this would be my next guess as to what to look for. I had a bent axle on my old escort and I wore out a new set of brakes and the rotor in 6 months because of that. but then again that was on a front wheel drive car.
Next I would disable the e brake to be sure its not dragging.

Ruffnuts wrote:Lift the rear off the ground and put it in drive and let the rear spin off the ground and see if you have a bent axle. With what you have done this would be my next guess as to what to look for. I had a bent axle on my old escort and I wore out a new set of brakes and the rotor in 6 months because of that. but then again that was on a front wheel drive car.
Next I would disable the e brake to be sure its not dragging.

Well, I reversed the order since I really don't feel like putting the car back in the air today.. lol I just got under it and pulled the clip off of the e-brake cable and pulled the end out of the retainer of the caliper. Drove it around and tried to make it do the same thing. I heard a VERY slight drag once, but I think that is because of the uneven wear on the new pads.. I think we've found the source of the problem. Now, what's the solution? Is there any way to adjust these cables, or do you just have to buy replacements?