conversion

i purchased some parts for the 4v conversion that i didn't get with the 4v, but the few i needed seemed to elude me. so being flexible in planning is important.


i purchased another 3v intake, inlet snorkel, water cross-over,etc so the 3v conversion is on the front burner now. all i have left is the timing cover, rings, bearings, head bolt, etc, and warmer weather.


Paul, we are going to see with dyno numbers what a little head work will do for 3v. only 3 angle valve job, back cut valves, intake matching, and pocket porting. should net 20-30 low lift cfm. no hogging like stage 3's. you might call it stage .5 for me.

Al papito will full port them for 750 dollars. for the pair. 280 cfm.

but i think for 150.00 and some of my time 250ish is good enough.

besides, without a mach or cobra motor 4v is way behind 3v. look at 4v power and 340+ is few and far between. paul has it in our club.


i guarantee myself 300 rwhp as a baseline.

Well this will be interesting to see Bill. Let us know when you get things completed.. :%worthy%:

the swap will not start until may. i am getting everything together, and rebuilding the short block now. the good thing is, the rods are the same as 96-98 cobras. that's good. 533rw is pretty much the accepted limit of 93-98 teksid parts. no forgings. they aren't necessary for a DD mild car. besides these will handle 7000.

ordered timing cover for 110.00 shipped

only rings, bearings,gaskets, and head bolts to go.

found a machine shop that will do the 3 angle for 125.00 total.

i will backcut the valves on the lathe at work.

ordered a canton screen type windage tray. it differs from the type 05+ stangs have, inthat it is a screen type with crank scrapers, and baffles.

the ford part is more of a pseudo tray. it does control some windage but still allows oil to splash, and doesn't truly scrape the crank.


this part will add a free 20-30 hp. and has the side benefit of added fuel economy.

http://www.cantonracingproducts.com/windage_trays/windage_trays.html#46


Ford found so much power in our windage tray and oil pan combination that they changed their assembly process to install them on all their 2000 Mustang Cobra R’s.

http://www.nhra.com/dragster/1999/issue14/tech_speaking.html


quote" I strongly advocate using a solid windage tray to shield the oil pump in any wet-sump engine. You may sacrifice a little power with a partial solid tray compared to a full-length screen-type tray, but the oil pressure will be much more consistent if you protect the oil around the pump pickup. The turbulence inside an engine's crankcase is unimaginable when its crankshaft assembly is spinning at 7,000 rpm and its eight pistons are pumping up and down in their cylinders 56,000 times per minute. A full or partial solid windage tray isolates the oil surrounding the oil-pump pickup from this whirlwind in the crankcase.
"



i ain't after reliability. i want every HP. this isn't a race car .... :-)

one last thing.

i am losing the power everything, switching to a manual rack and switching to manual brakes. not until next year probably. tubular k member, control arms, and coil overs go in at the same time i lose power stuff. if i can get it below 3000 it would be cool. it weighs 3360 on a certified scale right now. without me in it.

take away 200# pulling the 5.4, take the rack,brakes, and tube stuff. i should lose another 80-100#. lose the power driver's seat and use another passenger non-power seat. but nothing to lose comfort. keep the rear seat. every 100# takes .1 off E.T. and adds economy.

the motor alone will put me into the 12's if it get over 290rwhp.

i am getting a sniper programmer so i can make a 4" maf and inlet setup. i need a custom transfer function. also my fuel pressure will be 60psi, so i need to adjust pulse width for it, and alter injector timings for later, closer to valve opening. after valve-opening injector timing adds as much as 10hp. i may use my frpp 30# injectors instead of the stockers.

my headers are stepped 1.5" x 1.625" with 3" collectors. i am using 3" x 21" collector extensions that i will dyno tune when we go to the dyno after the swap. a bunch of sections i can add to to get max hp. then i'll add a real mufflered exhaust. usually collector extensions end up from 14" to 21" in length. the dyno will decide that.

sniper is installed and experimenting with tunes. i have to purchase the commando add-on for maf transfer functions, so i bought a LMAF instead. 90mm LMAF is really big anough. i'll use it for the track and the stocker for daily driving. no more hitting the limiter on shift. i upped the limiter to 6000. and lowered the shift points by 5 mph. also the firmness set to full race is harder than any shift kit i have felt. not very good for daily. nobody wants to spill the drink on every shift. as a matter of fact i set the daily tune to lowest mph shift and softest. shifts like a caddy for daily. i will go to the track with a baseline installed and 3 tunes with 1 degree increments of timing up and down to find out what this 3v likes at various rpms.