forged teksid

ok so i got to 30mpg. its ok, but i cant have any fun or the mpg drops to 20. i have to drive slow and NEVER get in it. so...

i ordered forgings today for the teksid i have. same rods as a terminator, but different pistons. no use ruining it with factory slugs that seize in the cylinders. mahle -17cc's i think they are. 8.59:1 C/R.

of course we all know thw only reason to drop CR. but thatg is another story. the 3v heads and intake are going on it. although there is a new B headed intake out there any time. but i have to change too many things on the 4v heads, like cam,springsetc. and the 3v's with springs are easier.


3 angle valve job, smoothed ports, and back-cut valves are the only head work i need.

-bill

Not only for a Stang but for a 5.4L

well the rods and pistons are here. motor build starts this weekend. i have to construct custom headers that will plumb the turbo. otherwise its a weekend project to swap it.

ok turbo ordered. its a garrett 70mm unit. 4" inlet 3" outlet compressor. 1.0 trim. t-4 exhaust 1.15trim. this unit will flow enough for 25lbs of boost for my engine. i may buy a forged crank to run that much, right now i was planning to use the stock 6bolt crank. that can only handle 650rwhp. the rods and pistons can handle 800hp. it will ag like hell, but i have no plans for part throttle usage. the dial-a-boost wastegate 0-17psi will be set to 0 for daily driving.
can you imagine a 3v with 15 - 20ish psi boost in a car weighing 3100lbs. the car weighs 3360 on a certified scale with the 5.4 3v. the 4.6 3v is the lightest of the mods. 200lbs lighter than now.

thats why the compression ratio is only 8.5:1. i may buy even lower cr pistons if i plan to run 20ish boost.

i know i am moving slowly, but the manual conversion master cylinder stuff and coil overs are in the mail. i have done a swap in the past where i pulled the whole front end out and swapped everything all at once.EVERYTHING!!! motor , tranny, suspension, and it was no fun and took forever. so im doing it in stages to make it easier and less time at one sitting. first i'm yanking all of the hydro-boost our to include ABS servo. all of the power assist steering stuff at the same time. that means the hydro master cylinder, steering rack, all the hydro lines and oil cooler, and ABS. with all of that stuff gone there will be a lot of space. i also specified the outlet on the new master is on the fender side for even more space.

then i'm putting the coil overs on.

when i swap the k-member out having that already done will make it a snap. even with the motor still in. i just have to weld up an engine cradle that bolts to the felder supports.

i plan to loose several hundred pounds out of the front end.

250-275 just for the engine swap. iron 5.4 to aluminum 4.6 3v---very light.
all k-member swap ~75 lbs
losing the power steering stuff ~30lbs or more. i have 225in-lb QA1 springs already in the house.

turbo adds 35lbs though. i'm not going to put the turbo in until the 4.6 3v swap is done a tuned well. i am going to make the headers and plumb the exhaust in place for the turbo at the time i swap the 4.6 in. it will look funny as hell having all the 2.5" tubing in front of the motor. but in stages.
i just cant do this stuff all at once like i could as a younger fellow. i get worn out and lose the motivation. besides I AM MAKING EVERYTHING. and crap that takes a lot of time. it will be ready for spring though. i also have to make a throttle body adapter . and i has to accept a 96 IAC. a lot of little things. not as much as the 5.4 swap though.

you know it should still make 300 rwhp before the turbo. minus the losses of 8.5:1 CR. 280ish i guess. but at a meaner 6400. its going to be cool to rev the hell out of it. cant blow it up N/A even at 8000 rpm. not with those rods. if i do the small head work maybe it will still get 300.


BTW i may send the completed heads to a flow bench for numbers. i fully expect 250-260 cfm. ALL of the head guys are doing simple things to these heads for 280. if they do turn out well we can all do the heads for 150.00 and time spent. no need to get raped by head guys for heads that already have near perfect intake port to valve angles. these heads are true high ports.


one more comment on head flow: on these 3v heads ford cast swirl brows like 2v on the back side of the valves. on 2v it has little effect on flow mainly because the short side on parallel arranged heads suck anyway.

that is not the case with 3v, but the advantage ford seems to have gained is BURN RATE. LS-x series heads have a burn rate that GM engineer set at 36 psi/ crank degree if i remember right. the number is unimportant if i'm off a little. they said it is approaching a diesel. they designed the chambers for 3v similar to that burn rate with the brows. it is one of the reasons stock 3v heads make so much power per cube. with a small chamber head.....to be continued

and fast burn rate ignition advance for mid range can be mild for torque and at high rpms allows less counter torquing. (advance) = more HP.

4v heads have a central plug and small chamber, but not a high burn rate like 3v/LS.

what i am getting at is, when i remove the swirl brows i will turn it into a high flowing, high cylinder filling head with average burn rate and quench. it will take more iginition advance for max hp and give up efficiency. those arent bad for what i am after. and in face it will be easier to tune because i wont need ignition curves for 3v any more. thoise brows are the reason #V burns like a blow-torch. Fox lake and other porters say that removing too much material in these chambers can allow burn through into the water jacket.


those swirl brows are killing flow in these heads.

according to Fox Lake the angle the brows are cut back to have a direct affect on flow. i dont have a flow bench to do the work, so i am simple removing a conservative amount.

oh it WILL make more power, but it will give up economy.

ok. so now the last parts are ordered. i bought a granitelli k-member. it doesnt alter the wheelbase as much as the QA1 part.

all of the exhaust tubing is on the way as well as my rear rims. no more mismatched colors.

i am going to run the passenger exhaust using the FMS stainless 3V right side header i have and turn it through the k-member in the a-arm area then forward to the turbo.

the driver's side header will have to be made. it will feed the turbo directly. the 60mm variable waste gate will have a tube feeding from between the two 2.5" mid tubes.

i am fashioning a stainless downpipe/rear turbo plate for a 3" turbo exhaust piping. im going to run it back through the driver's a-arm area.

i will split it where the x-pipe goes and muffler/turndowns.

project to build motor begins is two weeks. next week i swap the k-member.

the motor:
forged 4340 h-beams
mahle lightweight forged pistons -18cc(99+ 2v)
stock 6 bolt mark VIII crank
clevite bearings
full length Canton screen windage tray
6qt mark vIII oil pan
3v oil pump
stock water pump (05)
pocket ported 3v heads
stock cams
stock shimmed springs
90mm LMAF - blow through
36lb injectors @ 60psi / paxton pressure regulator w/boost sensing / TFS 255lph pump
160 t-stat
cmc delete
mark VIII 57mm throttlbody w/IAC
garrett 80mm 1.15a/r .56 trim cold/ .84 a/r .7 trim turbine turbo charger 25 psi max 3" inlet- 2"outlet cold/ 2.5" in / custom 3" outlet.
tial 60mm wastegate set at 2psi and turbonetics dial a boost 0-25psi
cheap 30mm blow-off valve

i think thats everything on the motor. i ended up getting a few different things than originally planned.

im not putting an intercooler on it right away. the wife is getting mad at the money, so i'll plumb it and add it later.

6psi is all i will run until i get the cooler.

i figure a week to build the whole thing. pulling the 5.4 out and putting the 4.6 in will only take a few days. i will wait longer for the heads than the whole build. the exhaust is planned out i think. with all of the power steering and brake stuff out of the way there's plenty of room now. the k-member will finish any loose details that might get in the way of the exhaust. i will have the motor waiting for the heads this week.
i only want a bit of power.

i will weigh the car on a certified scale after the build. can you say 2900lbs?

all tubular front end is installed. car is definitely quicker and lighter. steering response is great. engine build? i have to fabricate the headers first even before i tear off the 4v heads and take it apart. so it will be a quick turn around putting it back together and in.

i spent 1500.00 on the complete front end and delete stuff.

well teksid block is apart. amazing how little wear there is on the motors. a little refreshing and it goes back together. no wear on crank or cylinders to talk about.

this thing must have been babied. i am going to sell the pistons/rods/intake/heads/water cross over/oil pump as a 4v conversion kit on ebay. it only needs rings and bearings.

it's getting down to the wire. i assembled cylinders 1 thru 4.

5-8 tomorrow. gonna finish that, and install the windage tray and the lincoln oil pan. BTW the lincoln part is pretty good. it is baffled and has crank scrapers from the factory. the bottom end buttoned up.



next is removing the turbo's factory 5 bolt turbine outlet and making a SS plate with the downpipe welded on. the plate will also be made to mount the turbo to the timing cover with a 90* plate welded on.

also the 3v cover doesn't match up exactly to the teksid. i knew that. so i'll braze the hole that would cause it to leak.

with the turbo mounted I will have to stop there until i pull the 5.4.

i took stated advice and purchased some 39lb injectors. i will run them at 3.5 bar. the paxton FMU isnt needed. the tuner compensates the tune so i dont need it. i'll take it to the dyno just in case.

high pressure oil feed with restrictor is in. i bought the largest intercooler (4"x31"x12") and 3" piping i think will fit. 3" BOV pipe with pre welded flange is in.
exhaust still isnt started. but it will be a single 3" and 3.5" bullet muffler 45'd in front of the driver's rear tire. waste gate not vented.


i am going to go carefully on the dyno. sniper assures that the tune is conservative when setting it up. but i'm going carefully. 6 psi then 8 then 10 then 12 maybe a few more.

with 8.5:1 i guess i dont have anything to worry about.

hate to sound like a puss, but i really cant justify replacing stuff for going to hard. it's funny, when its other people stuff, and it's theory i dont worry. when its mine i think i will be careful.

108 octane and ill push it as hard as i think my tranny/axle/driveshaft can take.


at the track i cant go fast enough to trigger the cage rule. so i have no idea what psi i will run march 29th. i will swap gears for the event. probably 3.40's.

intercooler arrived... 1000hp ready. hotmustang told me to get the biggest i could.






black anodized tubing.

Eric and I have the same I/C. Works like a charm

wow your car looks cool. mine will always look stock. kinda like it has nothing going on. unless someone looks into the grille. i may paint the intercooler black to hide it.

well i ahev the heads apart. does anyone have a 4v spring tool i could use?

1 head porting is complete. lapping valves and assembling it is all i have left.


starting head 2 today.....

well it only took 1 month and 8 days to get the other head ported and the valves lapped and installed.
one head is assembled and ready to go on the short block, the other gets assembled tomorrow.

the heads go on tomorrow also. im gonna try to get the turbo mount fabricated and mounted tomorrow. possibly the down pipe and exhaust piping also. if i get the hotside done this weekend and the turbo oiling plumbed, i feel like i will make it by march 28th.

the 60mm wastegate will need to be done this weekend also.
the turbo will be mounted with a 1/4" thick stainless plate cut and drilled to match the turbine housing. the 3" down pipe will be welded directly to it. it will replace the internal wastegate/ v-band outlet. i have to make an aluminum oiling adapter that is threaded to accept the presure side and return oiling fittings. i also have to drill and braze a return barbed fitting to the oil pan. maybe a stainless fitting welded to the pan. undecided.

the 3" hotside will travel under the drivers side frame in the engine compartment then through the a-arm area of the k-member and back .

well so much for finishing the motor this weekend. too many other things to do. obligations.

heads are on and valvtrain is installed.

i may have to build it without the intercooler for the first race.

valve covers installed, timing cover on.

intake manifold is in the mail.

turbo mounting tomorrow. hot side saturday. pull the 5.4 saturday or sunday.

motor goes in tuesday. intercooler, BOV, wednesday,thursday. start it thursday. tune it friday. run it saturday after 500 miles of break-in and oil changes. low boost only for the race.

well the turbo mount is almost done. ill post pics of it later. it is integral mount/3" exhaust turbine outlet. it shortens the turbo up a little and gives me more space for the 3" piping to go under the frame.

i do have to go to a muffler shop to get a pipe flange made. i mat have to make it myself at a shop if they'll let me.

OMG can you believe i welded the mounting plate upside down. now i have to cut it off and reweld it. it is going to make it look a little bad. i can believe i was so careful and then did that any way.
delays are killing me. i dont have any cut off wheels so i have to wait for harbor frieght to open.